All these recollections crowded into my mind as we proceeded along the strand, which was beautifully gilded by the Andalusian sun.We at last arrived nearly opposite to San Lucar, which stands at some distance from the water side.Here a lively spectacle presented itself to us: the shore was covered with a multitude of females either dressing or undressing themselves, while (I speak within bounds) hundreds were in the water sporting and playing; some were close by the beach, stretched at their full length on the sand and pebbles, allowing the little billows to dash over their heads and bosoms; whilst others were swimming boldly out into the firth.
There was a confused hubbub of female cries, thin shrieks and shrill laughter; couplets likewise were being sung, on what subject it is easy to guess, for we were in sunny Andalusia, and what can its black-eyed daughters think, speak, or sing of but AMOR, AMOR, which now sounded from the land and the waters.
Farther on along the beach we perceived likewise a crowd of men bathing; we passed not by them, but turned to the left up an alley or avenue which leads to San Lucar, and which may be a quarter of a mile long.The view from hence was truly magnificent; before us lay the town, occupying the side and top of a tolerably high hill, extending from east to west.It appeared to be of considerable size, and I was subsequently informed that it contained at least twenty thousand inhabitants.Several immense edifices and walls towered up in a style of grandeur, which can be but feebly described by words; but the principal object was an ancient castle towards the left.The houses were all white, and would have shone brilliantly in the sun had it been higher, but at this early hour they lay comparatively in shade.The TOUT ENSEMBLE was very Moorish and oriental, and indeed in ancient times San Lucar was a celebrated stronghold of the Moors, and next to Almeria, the most frequented of their commercial places in Spain.Everything, indeed, in these parts of Andalusia, is perfectly oriental.Behold the heavens, as cloudless and as brightly azure as those of Ind; the fiery sun which tans the fairest cheek in a moment, and which fills the air with flickering flame; and O, remark the scenery and the vegetable productions.The alley up which we were moving was planted on each side with that remarkable tree or plant, for I know not which to call it, the giant aloe, which is called in Spanish, PITA, and in Moorish, GURSEAN.It rises here to a height almost as magnificent as on the African shore.Need I say that the stem, which springs up from the middle of the bush of green blades, which shoot out from the root on all sides, is as high as a palm-tree; and need I say, that those blades, which are of an immense thickness at the root, are at the tip sharper than the point of a spear, and would inflict a terrible wound on any animal which might inadvertently rush against them?
One of the first houses at San Lucar was the posada at which we stopped.It confronted, with some others, the avenue up which we had come.As it was still early, I betook myself to rest for a few hours, at the end of which time I went out to visit Mr.Phillipi, the British vice-consul, who was already acquainted with me by name, as I had been recommended to him in a letter from a relation of his at Seville.Mr.Phillipi was at home in his counting-house, and received me with much kindness and civility.I told him the motive of my visit to San Lucar, and requested his assistance towards obtaining the books from the customhouse, in order to transport them out of the country, as I was very well acquainted with the difficulties which every one has to encounter in Spain, who has any business to transact with the government authorities.He assured me that he should be most happy to assist me, and accordingly despatched with me to the custom-house his head clerk, a person well known and much respected at San Lucar.
It may be as well here at once to give the history of these books, which might otherwise tend to embarrass the narrative.They consisted of a chest of Testaments in Spanish, and a small box of Saint Luke's Gospel in the Gitano or language of the Spanish Gypsies.I obtained them from the custom-house at San Lucar, with a pass for that of Cadiz.At Cadiz I was occupied two days, and also a person whom Iemployed, in going through all the formalities, and in procuring the necessary papers.The expense was great, as money was demanded at every step I had to take, though I was simply complying in this instance with the orders of the Spanish government in removing prohibited books from Spain.
The farce did not end until my arrival at Gibraltar, where Ipaid the Spanish consul a dollar for certifying on the back of the pass, which I had to return to Cadiz, that the books were arrived at the former place.It is true that he never saw the books nor inquired about them, but he received the money, for which he alone seemed to be anxious.
Whilst at the custom-house of San Lucar I was asked one or two questions respecting the books contained in the chests:
