Night on the Guadalquivir - Gospel Light - Bonanza -Strand of San Lucar - Andalusian Scenery - History of a Chest -Cosas de los Ingleses - The Two Gypsies - The Driver -The Red Nightcap - The Steam Boat - Christian Language.
On the night of the 31st of July I departed from Seville upon my expendition, going on board one of the steamers which ply on the Guadalquivir between Seville and Cadiz.
It was my intention to stop at San Lucar, for the purpose of recovering the chest of Testaments which had been placed in embargo there, until such time as they could be removed from the kingdom of Spain.These Testaments I intended for distribution amongst the Christians whom I hoped to meet on the shores of Barbary.San Lucar is about fifteen leagues distant from Seville, at the entrance of the bay of Cadiz, where the yellow waters of the Guadalquivir unite with the brine.The steamer shot from the little quay, or wharf, at about half-past nine, and then arose a loud cry, - it was the voices of those on board and on shore wishing farewell to their friends.
Amongst the tumult I thought I could distinguish the accents of some friends of my own who had accompanied me to the bank, and I instantly raised my own voice louder than all.The night was very dark, so much so, indeed, that as we passed along we could scarcely distinguish the trees which cover the eastern shore of the river until it takes its first turn.A calmazo had reigned during the day at Seville, by which is meant, exceedingly sultry weather, unenlivened by the slightest breeze.The night likewise was calm and sultry.As I had frequently made the voyage of the Guadalquivir, ascending and descending this celebrated river, I felt nothing of that restlessness and curiosity which people experience in a strange place, whether in light or darkness, and being acquainted with none of the other passengers, who were talking on the deck, I thought my best plan would be to retire to the cabin and enjoy some rest, if possible.The cabin was solitary and tolerably cool, all its windows on either side being open for the admission of air.
Flinging myself on one of the cushioned benches, I was soon asleep, in which state I continued for about two hours, when Iwas aroused by the curious biting of a thousand bugs, which compelled me to seek the deck, where, wrapping myself in my cloak, I again fell asleep.It was near daybreak when I awoke;we were then about two leagues from San Lucar.I arose and looked towards the east, watching the gradual progress of dawn, first the dull light, then the streak, then the tinge, then the bright flush, till at last the golden disk of that orb which giveth day emerged from the abyss of immensity, and in a moment the whole prospect was covered with brightness and glory.The land smiled, the waters sparkled, the birds sang, and men arose from their resting places and rejoiced: for it was day, and the sun was gone forth on the errand of its Creator, the diffusion of light and gladness, and the dispelling of darkness and sorrow.
"Behold the morning sun Begins his glorious way;His beams through all the nations run, And life and light convey.
"But where the Gospel comes, It spreads diviner light;It calls dead sinners from their tombs, And gives the blind their sight."We now stopped before Bonanza: this is properly speaking the port of San Lucar, although it is half a league distant from the latter place.It is called Bonanza on account of its good anchorage, and its being secured from the boisterous winds of the ocean; its literal meaning is "fair weather." It consists of several large white buildings, principally government store-houses, and is inhabited by the coast-guard, dependents on the custom-house, and a few fishermen.A boat came off to receive those passengers whose destination was San Lucar, and to bring on board about half a dozen who were bound for Cadiz: I entered with the rest.A young Spaniard of very diminutive stature addressed some questions to me in French as to what I thought of the scenery and climate of Andalusia.Ireplied that I admired both, which evidently gave him great pleasure.The boatman now came demanding two reals for conveying me on shore.I had no small money, and offered him a dollar to change.He said that it was impossible.I asked him what was to be done; whereupon he replied uncivilly that he knew not, but could not lose time, and expected to be paid instantly.The young Spaniard, observing my embarrassment, took out two reals and paid the fellow.I thanked him heartily for this act of civility, for which I felt really grateful; as there are few situations more unpleasant than to be in a crowd in want of change, whilst you are importuned by people for payment.A loose character once told me that it was far preferable to be without money at all, as you then knew what course to take.I subsequently met the young Spaniard at Cadiz, and repaid him with thanks.
A few cabriolets were waiting near the wharf, in order to convey us to San Lucar.I ascended one, and we proceeded slowly along the Playa or strand.This place is famous in the ancient novels of Spain, of that class called Picaresque, or those devoted to the adventures of notorious scoundrels, the father of which, as also of all others of the same kind, in whatever language, is Lazarillo de Tormes.Cervantes himself has immortalized this strand in the most amusing of his smaller tales, La Ilustre Fregona.In a word, the strand of San Lucar in ancient times, if not in modern, was a rendezvous for ruffians, contrabandistas, and vagabonds of every, description, who nested there in wooden sheds, which have now vanished.San Lucar itself was always noted for the thievish propensities of its inhabitants - the worst in all Andalusia.The roguish innkeeper in DON QUIXOTE perfected his education at San Lucar.
