That is what it is, a royal sport for the natural kings of earth.
The grass grows right down to the water at Waikiki Beach, and within fifty feet of the everlasting sea.The trees also grow down to the salty edge of things, and one sits in their shade and looks seaward at a majestic surf thundering in on the beach to one's very feet.
Half a mile out, where is the reef, the white-headed combers thrust suddenly skyward out of the placid turquoise-blue and come rolling in to shore.One after another they come, a mile long, with smoking crests, the white battalions of the infinite army of the sea.And one sits and listens to the perpetual roar, and watches the unending procession, and feels tiny and fragile before this tremendous force expressing itself in fury and foam and sound.Indeed, one feels microscopically small, and the thought that one may wrestle with this sea raises in one's imagination a thrill of apprehension, almost of fear.Why, they are a mile long, these bull-mouthed monsters, and they weigh a thousand tons, and they charge in to shore faster than a man can run.What chance? No chance at all, is the verdict of the shrinking ego; and one sits, and looks, and listens, and thinks the grass and the shade are a pretty good place in which to be.
And suddenly, out there where a big smoker lifts skyward, rising like a sea-god from out of the welter of spume and churning white, on the giddy, toppling, overhanging and downfalling, precarious crest appears the dark head of a man.Swiftly he rises through the rushing white.His black shoulders, his chest, his loins, his limbs--all is abruptly projected on one's vision.Where but the moment before was only the wide desolation and invincible roar, is now a man, erect, full-statured, not struggling frantically in that wild movement, not buried and crushed and buffeted by those mighty monsters, but standing above them all, calm and superb, poised on the giddy summit, his feet buried in the churning foam, the salt smoke rising to his knees, and all the rest of him in the free air and flashing sunlight, and he is flying through the air, flying forward, flying fast as the surge on which he stands.He is a Mercury--a brown Mercury.His heels are winged, and in them is the swiftness of the sea.In truth, from out of the sea he has leaped upon the back of the sea, and he is riding the sea that roars and bellows and cannot shake him from its back.But no frantic outreaching and balancing is his.He is impassive, motionless as a statue carved suddenly by some miracle out of the sea's depth from which he rose.And straight on toward shore he flies on his winged heels and the white crest of the breaker.There is a wild burst of foam, a long tumultuous rushing sound as the breaker falls futile and spent on the beach at your feet; and there, at your feet steps calmly ashore a Kanaka, burnt, golden and brown by the tropic sun.
Several minutes ago he was a speck a quarter of a mile away.He has "bitted the bull-mouthed breaker" and ridden it in, and the pride in the feat shows in the carriage of his magnificent body as he glances for a moment carelessly at you who sit in the shade of the shore.
He is a Kanaka--and more, he is a man, a member of the kingly species that has mastered matter and the brutes and lorded it over creation.
And one sits and thinks of Tristram's last wrestle with the sea on that fatal morning; and one thinks further, to the fact that that Kanaka has done what Tristram never did, and that he knows a joy of the sea that Tristram never knew.And still further one thinks.It is all very well, sitting here in cool shade of the beach, but you are a man, one of the kingly species, and what that Kanaka can do, you can do yourself.Go to.Strip off your clothes that are a nuisance in this mellow clime.Get in and wrestle with the sea;wing your heels with the skill and power that reside in you; bit the sea's breakers, master them, and ride upon their backs as a king should.
And that is how it came about that I tackled surf-riding.And now that I have tackled it, more than ever do I hold it to be a royal sport.But first let me explain the physics of it.A wave is a communicated agitation.The water that composes the body of a wave does not move.If it did, when a stone is thrown into a pond and the ripples spread away in an ever widening circle, there would appear at the centre an ever increasing hole.No, the water that composes the body of a wave is stationary.Thus, you may watch a particular portion of the ocean's surface and you will see the sane water rise and fall a thousand times to the agitation communicated by a thousand successive waves.Now imagine this communicated agitation moving shoreward.As the bottom shoals, the lower portion of the wave strikes land first and is stopped.But water is fluid, and the upper portion has not struck anything, wherefore it keeps on communicating its agitation, keeps on going.And when the top of the wave keeps on going, while the bottom of it lags behind, something is bound to happen.The bottom of the wave drops out from under and the top of the wave falls over, forward, and down, curling and cresting and roaring as it does so.It is the bottom of a wave striking against the top of the land that is the cause of all surfs.
But the transformation from a smooth undulation to a breaker is not abrupt except where the bottom shoals abruptly.Say the bottom shoals gradually for from quarter of a mile to a mile, then an equal distance will be occupied by the transformation.Such a bottom is that off the beach of Waikiki, and it produces a splendid surf-riding surf.One leaps upon the back of a breaker just as it begins to break, and stays on it as it continues to break all the way in to shore.
