Alberta
LAKE LOUISE
RECOMMENDED BY Luis Garcés
Mountain guide Michael Vincent has called the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise a four-star resort in a five-star location … and this is no slight against the resort! When you walk out of the hotel, you find yourself in the middle of a postcard, with forested hillsides sweeping down to the lake's turquoise waters and Victoria Glacier gleaming in the distance. Chateau Lake Louise offers up vistas that can elevate a good pint to the sublime.
Chateau Lake Louise is set in the midst of Banff National Park, a 2,564-square-mile sanctuary west of Calgary, stretching along much of the southern section of the province of Alberta's border with British Columbia. That the chateau and nearby Banff Springs hotel (another Fairmont property) exist in the national park is thanks in large part to the Canadian Pacific Railway and the laws of supply and demand; the railroad created a supply of westbound train seats, and the hope was that some recreational centers would create a demand. The railway did not underestimate Banff's appeal. Whereas the Banff Springs hotel was built around the hot springs that bubbled up there to appeal to the spa culture, the original structure at Lake Louise—a log chalet with two bedrooms—was built for people interested in mountaineering. In the chalet's early days, several professional Swiss mountain guides were hired and brought to Lake Louise to help guests climb the surrounding mountains. The guides were let go in 1954, but in 1997 the notion of having staff guides was reincarnated. The initial log cabin at Lake Louise burned to the ground, giving way to the monolithic 552-room luxury lodge that sits on what the Stoney Indians called Lake of Little Fishes.
Luis Garcés arrived at Chateau Lake Louise via Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula, with a zeal to introduce guests to the finer points of beer. "When I began working at Fairmont Mayakoba, I was surprised to find that there were no local craft beers featured," he began. "I'm very passionate about beer and wanted to use my knowledge to introduce our guests to some of the fine beers being brewed in Mexico. Working with Cerveceria Calavera, we were able to introduce four craft beers—including an imperial stout—into all the food and beverage outlets at the hotel and train our staff on what makes them different. We also created a light menu pairing food and beer, which was very successful. When I arrived at Chateau Lake Louise, I was curious about the beer offering. The Glacier Saloon, our more casual pub and restaurant, had ten taps and some good beers available. But at the Walliser Stube, our alpine-themed restaurant, there was only Budweiser, Corona, and Kokanee—not the best pairing for the Swiss- and German-inspired cuisine. We explored the notion of instituting beer tastings, but it's not as good a match for this property. People who come to Lake Louise want to be outside to take advantage of the destination."
The focus for many visitors is hiking. One would be hard-pressed to find a richer assortment of day hikes than those originating in the Bow River Valley of southern Banff; overall, the park has six hundred miles of trails. From the chateau, a half mile of walking takes you into wild country; a few hours later, you're back in the comfort of an elegant lodge. The jewel of the extensive trail system around the lake is unquestionably the Plain of Six Glaciers hike. After skirting the lake, the trail climbs abruptly, eventually crossing avalanche paths. Turn a corner soon after, and you walk into an IMAX film. Lake Louise and the chateau are behind you, ahead is the Victoria Glacier, thirty stories tall, and beyond that, Mount Aberdeen, Mount Lefroy, and the Mitre (a mountain shaped like a bishop's hat). Not far ahead, there's the Plain of Six Glaciers Tea House. This structure was initially built as a mountaineering hut by the Swiss guides but now is run seasonally by a local family that serves fresh baked goods and tea. A little farther along, you can take in a vista of all six glaciers: the hanging glaciers on Aberdeen, Lefroy, and Victoria; the Lefroy and Lower Victoria Valley glaciers; and the hanging glacier on Pope's Peak. You'll want to stay alert as you hike along Lake Louise; despite the many sightseers, the region has one of the highest densities of grizzlies in Banff, and bear sightings—usually at a comfortable distance—are not uncommon. (If you're less interested in a hike, consider paddling a canoe across Lake Louise; the reflection of the lodge's red canoes mingling against the white of the glacier in the lake's trademark turquoise waters is mesmerizing.)
Back at the chateau, you can experience those timeless vistas once again, this time with a libation from one of the Fairmont's distinctive pubs. For Luis, the season will dictate the best venue. "If it's summer, I love to sit out on the terrace of the Lakeview Lounge. The lounge has some good local beers on tap, including Rutting Elk Red, a red ale made by Grizzly Paw Brewing, just down the road in Canmore. Looking out on Victoria Glacier, you can compare notes on the day's hikes with your neighbors and ponder the day you've had in nature. [If you hiked Plain of Six Glaciers and have a pair of binoculars, you can pinpoint exactly where you were earlier in the day.] During cooler weather, it's hard to beat the Walliser Stube, which has a large window looking out on the lake and glacier. Whether you've been out skating on the most beautiful outdoor ice skating rink in the world (Lake Louise), skiing, or dog-sledding (which I'd strongly recommend trying), there's nothing like sitting down with a warm pot of Swiss fondue and a nice glass of Munich Gold from Hacker-Pschorr (Germany) or Stiegl lager (from Austria)."
With Luis's guidance, Fairmont will be adding other distinctive beers to the Walliser Stube's offering soon.
LUIS GARCéS is Food and Beverage Outlet Manager for the Walliser Stube at Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise in Banff National Park. A native of Veracruz, Mexico, Luis attended Washington State University. During college summers, Luis worked for the San Diego Zoo and San Diego Zoo's Safari Park; after turning twenty-one, he fell in love with the beer that was being brewed in San Diego and throughout the west. Luis joined Fairmont Hotels and Resorts' Leadership Development Program after college and began his career at the Fairmont Mayakoba in the Mexican Mayan Riviera, where he developed a craft beer program.
If You Go
Getting There: Alberta is served by many major carriers, including Air Canada (888-247-2262; www.aircanada.com). Lake Louise is roughly one hundred miles to the west.
Best Time to Visit: Mid-June through September offers the most reliable weather (and clear trails) for hiking. Winter sports begin mid-November and run into May.
Spots to Visit: Glacier Saloon, Lakeview Lounge, and Walliser Stube.
Accommodations: The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise (403-522-3511; www.fairmont.com/lake-louise) has 552 guest rooms.
