Alabama
BIRMINGHAM
The Destinations
RECOMMENDED BY Stuart Carter
The craft-brewing revolution was a bit slow to arrive in Alabama. It's no small wonder that it arrived at all.
"I arrived in Birmingham in the fall of 2005," Stuart Carter recalled. "When I went to the store to check out the beer section, my first reaction was, 'Where is the beer?' I saw all the mass brands, but not much else. One day I was grousing to a colleague about the lack of good beer. He explained the state of affairs in Alabama. At that point, beer stronger than 6 percent ABV was illegal in the state of Alabama. And beer couldn't be sold in sizes above sixteen ounces. My colleague also told me about Free the Hops, a nonprofit that was lobbying to reform the state's beer laws. I got involved. Not long after, I found myself in Montgomery with sweaty ankles, speaking to a House of Representatives subcommittee about why Alabamians should be able to drink the same stuff as people in other states."
Alabama has not historically been known as a hotbed of state-sanctioned libertinism. After the Twenty-First Amendment repealed Prohibition, the state's leaders seized upon section 2 of the amendment, which subjected alcohol to state and local regulations. By limiting the strength of beer to 6 percent and the size of beer containers to less than sixteen ounces, the good people of Alabama would be protected from the evils of intoxication. Further distribution strictures were visited upon would-be brewpub owners, essentially making such businesses economically unfeasible. As a result, beer lovers seeking a craft brew in Alabama in 2004 would have come up with an empty glass.
Enter Free the Hops. When the grassroots advocacy group—made up of architects, doctors, lawyers, and tradesmen with no ties to the beverage industry and no motives beyond the desire to enjoy a good doppelbock or IPA—began visiting the legislature to make their case, they quickly realized that education would be key to their success. One of the major concerns legislators had was that an increase in ABV would encourage underage drinking. "We had to show the legislators that when teens scrape together enough cash to send someone's older brother to the gas station, they're looking for a major brand and something easy to drink," Stuart continued. "To these kids, an imperial IPA would taste like ashes and cat pee." Stuart also made the economic case for revisiting Alabama's ABV restrictions. "We calculated that the state was losing twenty thousand to thirty thousand dollars a month due to beer runs to other states," he added. "How many jobs might that support? How much tax revenue?"
It took several years, but on Memorial Day weekend in 2009, then-Governor Bob Riley signed legislation allowing an increase from 6 percent to 13.9 percent ABV for beer. "One of our wholesalers took a gamble and stocked his shelves with higher-alcohol beer," Stuart recalled. "That Friday, trucks began going out with Celebrator Doppelbock, Old Rasputin Imperial Stout. Suddenly I didn't have to drive to Georgia to buy stronger beer!"
There were a few more hurdles to jump before Alabama's brewing scene could really soar. In 2011, the Brewery Modernization Act passed, allowing breweries to have an attached taproom. And in 2012, a new container-size law passed, making it possible to sell beer in containers up to 25.9 ounces. With these new laws in place, the number of breweries in Alabama ballooned from two in 2011 to twenty-seven (as of this writing). And Birmingham has four. Stuart offered a rundown of his favorite offerings in his adopted hometown.
"If you visit Birmingham to sample our beer, you have to visit Good People. It was founded in 2008 and is Alabama's biggest brewery, brewing about fifteen thousand barrels a year. Their product is hop-centric—even their brown ale. Good People's IPA has been highly rated in national tastings; their pale and brown ales are the brewer's 'keep the lights on' standbys. They have a double IPA called Snake Handler that gets a lot of attention; I've had people from western states ask me to send them some. People love it, though I can't drink it! Good People does some smaller batch beers too, including a double imperial stout called El Gordo that's 13.9 percent ABV. It's pretty close to perfect, with a consistency between molasses and used engine oil. The artwork they use on their cans reflects the rusty, iron nature of Birmingham's industrial heritage. And the taproom is right across the street from Regions Field, which is the home of the Birmingham Barons minor league baseball team. If the Barons are playing, the atmosphere is especially lively."
Avondale Brewing Company is another must-stop. "Avondale is a four-thousand-barrel brewery that's become the anchor of a regenerated business district. The brewery has punched so far above its weight in terms of economic impact, turning a whole neighborhood around. (Saw's BBQ and Post Office Pies help round out the culinary offerings.) Avondale is doing a good job pushing into new areas, including a souring program. A rather malty saison is their flagship beer; a lot of their beers are Belgian-influenced. They're referred to as 'Hambics'—we're in Birmingham, after all. They're working toward a program where they're souring beers for years. The sour beers appeal to wine drinkers and beer nerds. You're hitting flavors that your brain says are wrong."
Birmingham's current brewery offering is rounded out by Cahaba and Trim Tab. If want to get a broad sense of what's brewing in Alabama, visit the Magic City Brewfest in June.
"There are still neo-Prohibitionists afoot in Alabama," Stuart ventured, "and many have affiliations with conservative religious groups. I'm a born again Christian and was director of a pro-alcohol reform group and see no conflict in this. After all—my Lord's first miracle was not turning water into Kool-Aid."
STUART CARTER is a native of Scotland and a past president of Free the Hops (2007–10).
If You Go
Getting There: Birmingham is served by a number of carriers, including Delta (800-221-1212; www.delta.com) and United (800-864-8331; www.united.com).
Best Time to Visit: The Magic City Brewfest (www.magiccitybrewfest.com) is generally held in early June. Those sensitive to heat and humidity may wish to avoid the height of summer.
Spots to Visit: Good People Brewing Company (205-286-2337; www.goodpeoplebrewing.com) and Avondale Brewing Company (205-777-5456; www.avondalebrewing.com).
Accommodations: A comprehensive list of accommodations is available from the Birmingham Convention & Visitors Bureau (800-458-8085; www.birminghamal.org).
